Monday, May 26, 2008

Top Ten Signs "You Know You Have Adjusted to Living in India"


1.  You are extremely excited when the temperature COOLS OFF to 90 degrees!


2.  You realize the ants will ALWAYS win so you may as well stop fighting them.


3.  Your definitions of the words "CLEAN" and "DIRTY" have drastically changed.


4.  You no longer do a double take when seeing COWS wandering the city streets.


5.  You are comfortable with your personal space being NON-EXISTENT.


6.  Your definition of "SPICY" has reached a whole new level...


7.  You no longer notice that the "online dating ads" in your email have been replaced by "ONLINE ARRANGED MARRIAGE ADS"


8.  You have accepted the GECKO living in your kitchen cupboard since he will kindly eat all the other bugs.


9.  You have become accustomed to TILTING YOUR HEAD sideways for yes, instead of giving the usual nod.


10. You are used to EATING ALONE in the restaurant when you arrive as early as 7pm, since most people arrive as you are leaving.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Interesting Minutiae by Jon- Chicken

Back in '86/'87 when my family was here, there were no outside businesses in Bangalore.  Things have changed quite a bit since then and that makes the Colonel happy:
But better than KFC are the knockoff businesses:

Kentacky???  ... indeed.

Hmmm, it doesn't taste like chicken!

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Visiting Gouri's House

Gouri invited us to come over to her house for snacks and a visit. We had a wonderful time! Here are some pictures:

Mandi in her sari, getting ready to go

Gouri and Mandi in their saris before heading to Gouri's

Gouri's kids, Manju and Manoj - hanging out on their couch with Jon

Gouri decorating Mandi's hair with jasmine flowers

Gouri showing hospitality by giving Mandi a parting gift

Same saris - new location

Heading out to visit Gouri's local temple

We received blessings from the Hindu Priest

Outside the Hanuman temple.  Hanuman is the monkey god.

Jon and Mandi back at home - full of delicious vadai and other delicacies that Gouri prepared for us

Mandi's Observations- Coming to Terms

Well it has taken three months of being in India, but I finally feel comfortable with my life here. What I have come to realize is that no matter how hard I try or how much I want to, I can't change everything. Being so abruptly bombarded with new and different forms of oppression and disadvantage, every time I came across something new, I felt like I somehow needed to change it.  Coming to grips with reality here has been a long drawn out process, filled with plenty of intense emotional experiences.  The weirdest part is actually getting used to some of the things that used to put me into shock every time I would see them.  I no longer wince at the sight of shanty towns and intense poverty; it surrounds me like the air that I breathe.  Coming to terms with it and the way the world is, however cruel, is what has allowed me to survive and thrive in India.

When we first arrived in India, uncovering the caste system and the poverty that it perpetuated, made me cringe with unease.  How could a society so blatantly disregard entire groups of people in this way?  However, being immersed in the culture, you come to understand that in so many ways it really isn't that much different than what you are used to.  In any society, there are people on the top, and people on the bottom, and in the case of the caste system, the arrangement is just more blatantly obvious.  I think about upward mobility in the U.S. through social strata, and I realize the majority of the time it operates in much the same way as a caste system, people are born into a certain class, and will most likely stay in that class throughout their life.  However, people do have the opportunity to move across these lines in the U.S.  The influence and infrastructure that technology is creating in India, leads to much this same sort of class straddling, but only for the people that have the means to become a part of it.  Great strides are being made in making changes in India, moving towards doing away with the caste system.  What I wonder now is how much that will actually change the society. Even if the caste system were gone, would the social structure remain the same?  After all, has there ever not been a hierarchy when it comes to people?
  
Needless to say, I had to give up on the idea that me being in India was somehow going to change the injustice and archaic social systems that I was faced with on a daily basis.  Coming to terms with the fact that I would make only a small impression in the injustice, and that I couldn't possibly fix it all, has allowed me the freedom needed to enjoy my time here.  I no longer feel the weight of the world on my shoulders, instead, I can feel the excitement for all the possibility for change that India will be confronted with in the near future. Breaking down barriers of injustice relating to women, caste, disability, skin color, and education are all things that have the potential to make a difference in the society.  Being here and seeing all the people who are working towards making these changes brings large hopes for the future of India. 

While I am here, I will make my small dent in all of these areas.  Working with Balajothi, for people with disabilities, and for a women's NGO, I will help advance Women's Rights and Disability Rights.  My relationships with various people from different castes, skin colors, and education backgrounds, will allow me to break some social barriers and in doing so hopefully force other people to follow suite.  That is my hope for  India and the time I spend here.  

Realizing that it does not do anyone any good for me to sit around feeling guilty and pitying other people has been the best thing to happen to me so far in India.  As evidenced by many people here, just because you live in poverty, does not mean you are not happy.  It makes your life very difficult in many ways, but you can still live a happy and rewarding life.  Each day here I learn something new about myself and the world I live in.  Balance has been the key to understanding, along with the work I am doing here, I also take time to enjoy life.  Pottery and Yoga are two of the things that help me stay balanced in a place that can throw a person off kilter in the blink of an eye.  I know as our journey continues, I will be faced with experiencing and learning about more injustice in the world, but at the same time, I now understand the context in which I have to look at these things, and I understand what I need to ask of myself in order to come to terms with it.  In a world as big as our, injustice is rampant and abusive, and I will continue to fight for equality for the rest of my life, but I have also learned some valuable lessons about taking care of myself in the process that will continue to benefit me long after we leave India.

Saturday, May 3, 2008

Yoga for Mandi

I have been going to SURYA JYOTHI YOGA CENTRE for a few months now, and I love Yoga in India. In the U.S. yoga seems to be mostly centered around physical exercise, however here it is a balance of body, mind, and soul. I go a few times a week and have already improved my Yoga abilities beyond anything I could accomplish in the U.S. I am really enjoying it! My teachers are wonderful, and Swami Krishnananda has been staying after class to help me with meditation. I have actually achieved full meditation here, something I have not been able to do before! My goal is to be able to do a head-stand by the time we leave India! Let's hope I can do it! With the heat reaching 98 degrees here and no air-conditioning at the yoga studio, it can be grueling at times, but I am committed and I love it! Here are some pictures of the yoga studio and my teacher Swami Krishnananda.



Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Tumba Minchu (Kannada for "Much Lightning")

With temperatures getting into the upper 90s, it was nice to have a storm roll through this evening that cooled everything down.

Check out Jon's awesome slideshow:

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Apartment Photo-fest!

For those of you who've been asking for pictures of our apartment, you're in luck!

Our living room

Living room / Dining room

Kitchen (where the yummy food happens)

Where's Mandi?

This is supposed to be the maid's quarters.  We keep our shoes in there.


Second bedroom / relax-y-area

Indian bed turned into a couch!

Our room!

It's getting up to 97 degrees now - the AC is very important!

Beautiful view from the balcony

Beautiful Mandi on the balcony!

Coconuts come from here.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Mandi's Observations- On Being a Woman in India

With each passing day I spend in India, I begin to feel more and more what it is like to be a woman in this country.  Most of this understanding comes from my friendship with our housekeeper, Gouri.  She has been teaching me to cook wonderful south Indian foods, and during this time we spend together, which is often hours each day, a friendship unlike any I have ever had continues to develop.  With her limited use of English the language barrier between us requires creative use of body language and gestures, yet somehow we are able to understand each other, perhaps on a different level all together.  There is a sameness we share through the commonality of being women that allows us a distinctive understanding of the other, even though our lives truly seem worlds apart.     

When Gouri reveals things about her personal life to me, it usually takes me one full day to process what she has told me.  Even then I can never truly understand the world she lives in, her existence as a lower caste woman in a society that values maleness and the higher castes.  As she shows me how to pop mustard seeds in oil to release the flavor, she tells me stories about her life that seem no less foreign to me than I would think a story of a woman’s life on Mars would seem.  I wondered if I could ever possibly relate to someone who was forced to quit school and begin full-time work when she was 10 years-old, who now at 28 years-old works 12 hour days, non-stop, constantly on her feet and moving around, manual labor which I can not comprehend.  Would our lives have common intersections that would allow us to learn from each other and gain through our understanding of each other’s experiences?  Surprisingly, over chopping okra and shelling peas, these common understandings begin to emerge, and we begin to grow in our experiences of knowing the other.

As we sit at the table snapping the ends off of green beans, Gouri begins to tell me of her life growing up.  How her mother married her off, at age 13.  Gouri has been the sole earner in her household since she has been married.  Her husband stays at home while she is out earning a living to support him and their two children.  I can tell she worries about her children and their future.  My look of concern and pure astonishment at what she tells me causes Gouri to reassure me that things are a lot better for her now then they used to be.  That she feels happy and blessed by God for the fact that she has enough work to feed her children and allow them to continue their education.  She stresses her desire to see them get all the way through school, since she was not allowed this luxury.  It was not until this moment in time that I viewed education as nothing less than a luxury one is afforded in life. 

As Gouri watches me chop the tomato for the sambhar we are preparing, she takes the knife from me after I chop off the end of the tomato and shows me how much good tomato I was wasting by cutting it the way I did.  When before this moment did I ever worry about wasting some of the end of a tomato?  Yet, her whole life, Gouri has been worried about conserving every resource she has available to her.  She knows the pain of hunger firsthand, and she would never think of wasting any types of valuable resources.  From plastic bags to cardboard boxes to the ends of tomatoes, I am learning to use all the resources I have around me and to waste as little as possible.  How could I possibly allow myself to waste in a place where so many people go without?  These lessons in life that Gouri teaches me are invaluable and will follow me throughout time.  

The question that continues to plague my mind: How did we come to be here, her and I, as who we are?  Each of us has had unique and distinctive experiences of the world, and each of us has faced different struggles and challenges in life. Sometimes I feel so far from understanding Gouri’s life experiences, and sometimes I feel like they are all things that I comprehend on some level.  Women all over the world have been subjugated for as far back as time spans.  There are many different ways in which sexism enters women’s lives and reflects on their experiences.  In India, it shows itself to be more apparent and more widespread then I am used to in the U.S.  Wives do serve their husbands, women eat last at meals, women are often times not directly spoken to, the gender divisions are painstakingly clear.  Yet, the movement for women in India gains more and more momentum as time passes.  As more and more women become fed up with this archaic manner of relating, they fight for their rights as women and the way of their lives in India slowly begins to change.  Gouri alone, opening up to me and sharing the circumstances of her life, spreads awareness and understanding of life for women in India.  And believe me, Gouri does do her part to help India.  Even though she has so little, she is still willing to help people who are less fortunate than her by giving what she can whenever she can.  She once told me, anything, no matter how small, can help.                  

When we first arrived in India, Jon and I were quite uncomfortable with the idea of having a maid in our own apartment.  We weren’t used to having someone else cleaning up after us, doing our laundry, scrubbing our dishes; just the idea of this made us feel snobby and over-privileged.  But when the time came to leave the corporate apartment for our own place, my friendship with Gouri had become such that I was not willing to lose it.  So we asked her to come and work at our new apartment, and thankfully she agreed.  The amount of knowledge and understanding I gain from her about what it means to be a woman in India is invaluable beyond compare.  Her openness and willingness to teach me new things and to share parts of her life with me has been integral to my understanding of the culture that I am living in for a year.  I am grateful for Gouri and all that she has to offer me, and I hope that in our friendship, she is gaining just as much as I am.       

 

 

Ugadi Habada Subhashayagalu!


Happy New Year Everybody!  Yesterday, we celebrated the Hindu calendar New Year, Ugadi. Prakash took us to Honarainahalli (his village) where we celebrated the entire day.  We left early in the morning and arrived to a cheerful greeting and a delicious breakfast.  Breakfast consisted of roti, bean subji, green chutney, and fresh from their cow ghee!  For those who don't know, ghee is clarified butter.


After breakfast, and a tour of the family farm, Prakash and his brother took us to Shivaganga, a nearby temple complex on a mountain.  Shivaganga consists of many different temples to the god Shiva and various related gods (Parvati his wife, Ganesh their son, and Nandi the bull that Shiva rides).  The temples are arrayed all over a mountain and it's 3 miles hike to get to the top.  We removed our shoes as Shivaganga is a sacred place and proceeded to hike from temple to temple in our socks until we were half way up the mountain.  Mandi has the blisters to prove it.  Oh, did we mention that it was the middle of the day and the temperature was up around 90 degrees!Many of the temples of Shivaganga are caves, and they were all extremely hot and humid inside!  Throughout the journey, we saw monkeys eating various pooja items (banannas, coconuts, and flowers) brought by the devotees as offerings.  Speaking of monkeys, Prakash warned us to keep a tight hold on our belongings as the monkeys are known to steal from people, expecting to find food.  At one outdoor shrine to Nandi, a family of monkeys descended on us from the hillside above.  One daring monkey ran towards us baring his teeth and growling.  Prakash and his brother instantly sprang to action and started throwing sticks and various other objects at the monkeys.  We hopped down off of the Nandi statue, gave the territory to the monkeys, and stopped just thinking of them as cute little animals.


After Shivaganga, we went back to Prakash's family's house where we partied Ugadi-style with Prakash and his brothers and friends.  Then we were again fed a delicious meal - this time consisting of mango rice and the traditional Ugadi sweet, obbattu, a delicious jaggery and dal based sweet.  Additionally we were given the best chai that we have ever had which Prakash attributed to the fresh milk.  Right before offering us tea, his brother came by with a jug full of milk that was fresh from the cow.  Delicious!  Following lunch was a much needed nap!  Upon waking from the nap (still quite full), we were invited over to another relative's house where we were again fed obbatu and mango rice.  Beyond full, we went back to Prakash's family's house where they insisted that we eat another snack and drink more chai.  Not wanting to be rude, we obliged and stuffed our stomachs to the bursting point.  We were a bit worried on the bumpy dirt road portion of the return trip that bad things might happen.

We love you Ugadi, and everybody's hospitality (even though it can hurt a bit).